My post about kids with curly hair seems to have been popular enough to warrant an Adult Version, so here you have it:
What Noemi Does To Her Own Hair, Which May Or May Not Work For You.
For those of you just joining us now, this is me and my current hairstyle:
I think (my mom can chime in here, if she’s so inclined) I had mostly just wavy hair as a child, but things seemed to have morphed during puberty giving me a head full of curls I butchered with short, unflattering cuts until I finally grew it long in high school. At which point I simply changed what direction I took in my abuse of my hair, and that is by soaking it in a disgusting L’Oreal product called Pumpin’ Curls, which is essentially rubbing alcohol, and carries the warning that it is FLAMMABLE.
In college I wore it butch-ass short, and then took the following two years to grow it back out, so it wasn’t until I moved to Seattle in 1999 that I finally had both enough hair and enough of being displeased with it that I decided I should DO something about it. Y’all, I didn’t have the internet at home in 1999, so I’d go to the local library to check my Hotmail. And then, after seeing no job offers in the aforementioned Hotmail account, I’d wander the stacks, trying to look employable.
Which is where I ran across Curly Girl: The Handbook. This book gave me a reason and the tools to change everything about the way I dealt with my hair, and if you’re interested in the science behind curly hair and why you need to baby the shit out of it, this is a good place to start.
I’m not going to bore you with a big long discussion of all the products and techniques I did to get to what I do now (I mean, unless you want me to, via email), so here’s exactly what I do.
I use four products total: shampoo, conditioner, a leave-in conditioner, and gel.
Shampoo and Conditioner:
These are Deva products (made by the company started by the author of the Curly Girl Handbook), and I usually order them online, but some salons do carry them, with the attendant mark-up, of course. If you see this at Target or the grocery store, it’s stock that “fell off a truck,” and you’re going to pay WAY over retail for them., so stick to the salon or the internet.
Low-Poo: I know, it’s an idiotic name. This is a low-lather shampoo that gets my hair clean, given that I’m unable to shower every day, and have a tendency towards greasy-ness. The 12 ounce bottle pictured above lasts me… uh, a long time? At least a couple months? Gentle enough to use every day.
One Condition: I use a metric fuckton of this, which is why I buy that huge pump bottle size, instead of the 12 ounce size like the shampoo. I shampoo first thing when I get in the shower, rinse, then apply conditioner and go about the rest of my shower. I rinse as the very last thing before I exit the shower, and I don’t COMPLETELY rinse. My hair still feels a bit slippery, not squeaky or rough. If I feel like I’ve rinsed TOO MUCH, I just add a little bit back.
Styling Products:
Knot Today: This is a leave-in conditioner, and I use a healthy dollop (I don’t know- usually when you read these types of posts, they tell you amounts in coin sizes. So, uhhhh, silver dollar size? I have no fucking clue).
Curling Custard: This is a gel, and I use a small scoop; the amount that fits on my first three fingertips when I dip them into the tub.
Now, the routine itself:
In the shower, I shampoo and condition, leaving a bit of conditioner in when I do my final rinse. Now, this next part is different than what I talked about doing for kids, because it’s a bit more involved and you’re an Adult, and can handle it. Before I get out of the shower stall, I run my hands over my hair and squeeze some water out. My hair is still SOAKING.
Now we go straight to product. I know, it’s WEIRD. Your hair is dripping down your back, it’s itchy and uncomfortable, but SERIOUSLY. This is the step that changes everything. I put my silver dollar (or whatever) amount of Knot Today in my hands and smear it around on my palms. Then I flip my hair forward and holding my fingers like a rake, I shake my hair loose from its slicked back state. Now the curls are “loose” and I scrunch the Knot Today in all over, scrunching up from the bottom, adding a bit right in the front (where my “bangs” would be, if I had them). Some people will tell you to rake this product through your hair to make sure every strand is coated, but my curl pattern is too delicate for that sort of treatment. If you’re just starting this sort of routine, you’re gonna have to play with it a bit to see what works with your particular hair, so if you think this shake and scrunch technique is TOO delicate for you, try something more.
My hair is still sopping wet. With it still flipped forward, I use that same scrunching motion to dry it with a microfiber towel (I use automotive shop towels). This is all the drying I’m going to do, and I don’t even do that much. Just enough for it to stop dripping.
Now, this part might just be me, but at this point I leave the steamy bathroom and start getting dressed. It’s most likely bullshit, but I feel like the transition between hot bathroom to cool bedroom “shocks” the hair cuticle shut, preventing it from losing more moisture. I TOLD YOU IT WAS MOST LIKELY BULLSHIT. I DO IT ANYWAYS.
Once I’m dressed, I flip my head forward once more, and again with the scrunching motion, add in the Curling Custard, concentrating on the ends of my hair. And that’s it. My hair is still very wet, but that’s all I’m going to do with it for the rest of the day. The hardest part from here on out it keeping my hands out of it- the more I mess with it before it’s dry, the more I disturb the curl pattern. When I worked, the 15 minute drive to work was just enough time to let my hair “set.” I’d arrive at the parking garage, scrunch the curls one last time, and TA-DA!
It sounds like a lot, but I GUARANTEE it takes less time than blow-drying and flat ironing. Try it!
Some additional thoughts:
If you’re using silicone based products to tame the frizz or as a “heat protectant” because you flat iron, you’re going to want to do a clarifying shampoo first before you try new products. Those silicones have coated your hair shaft, and these no-detergent shampoos aren’t going to be strong enough to remove this buildup.
Your hair is gonna look worse before it looks better. I know, this TOTALLY blows. Start the first time on a Friday night, so you have the weekend to throw yourself a pity party and write me a scathing email about how you wasted at least 15 minutes reading all these words and your hair looks like shit. It’s cool, I can take it. Generally, you should stick with it for 2 weeks, but I started seeing a difference by the third day (so, Sunday in my hypothetical above).
If it’s cold where you are, you’re also up against the dry air, which is counterproductive to all this moisturizing you’re trying to do. You can do as much drying as possible at home using a diffuser, or you can wait to try this when it’s warmer, or you can have frozen hair (this was my choice. I know, I know. Colds are still caused by viruses).
The importance of a good hair stylist cannot be understated. They don’t need to be specially trained and only do curly-haired clients, although that’s not a bad thing. What they do need to know is how to cut curly hair in general (like no bobs that end around the ear where all the hair is one length, JESUS H. CHRIST, even people with STRAIGHT hair knows that gives you triangle head like that Dilbert chick); and how to use thinning shears. NaturallyCurly.com has a tab where in salons and stylists in all 50 states are rated by other people with curly hair, sometimes at great length, so if your current stylist isn’t working for you, you might want to check it out.
YouTube has a bajillion videos with all kinds of women with all kinds of hair types doing these sorts of techniques- it really helped me to watch a real live person SHOW me how to do it.
I don’t have a good “second day” hair routine- if I did my hair the day before, and don’t sleep on it until it is BONE DRY, it looks good enough the next day to wear down (although I think some of this has to be attributed to the CUT, which has that tousled-just-out-of-bed look to it anyways. My undying gratitude to my stylist, Kellianne). After that it’s a million and one variations on the bun/ponytail. If you find something that works for you, drop me a line, eh?
If it’s not painfully obvious by now, I like to talk hair, so feel free to tell me what works for you.
19 comments
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January 6, 2013 at 4:21 am
swistle
I don’t know why I’m so MESMERIZED by this, when I DON’T HAVE CURLY HAIR. But here I am, leaning forward in my chair to make sure I catch every word.
Also, after yesterday’s post I looked at the ingredients in a few random hair products pulled from the full drawer-full of them I have—and every single one I checked had alcohol within the first five ingredients, usually in the first two or three, and often TWICE in the first five ingredients. SIGH.
January 6, 2013 at 5:35 am
Babs
Yes! I love the Deva products but they are so expensive.
Your hair routine (not the products) is exactly how I do mine. I put product in it sopping wet and then leave it alone.
If I need to take any water out I use an old t-shirt. Never a towel.
January 6, 2013 at 6:09 am
Erin
I’m with Swistle. Totally riveted and I do not have curly hair, despite all my prayers and eating the crusts on my sandwiches when I was a kid. (My mom and grandma told me the crust would give me curly hair. I believed it till I was like 11.)
(I also believed in Santa till I was 11 or 12. I know. I KNOW.)
January 7, 2013 at 7:54 am
Cecile
I am totally traumatized by the fact that I washed your hair with johnson baby shampoo and towel dried it…oh well, babies don’t come with instructions 🙂
maman
January 7, 2013 at 7:57 am
LizScott
I, too, am totally fascinated. I feel like there is this entire underground counter culture that us straight haired girls never knew existed.
January 7, 2013 at 6:20 pm
Caitlin
I love reading this! Our routines are pretty similar, but I diffuse my hair and don’t leave conditioner in. Perhaps I should start. I also apparently need a copy of this book.
Have you used the Deva Curl Mist-er Right? It’s a spray (smells like lavender!) that I use for boosting my curls when they start drooping. My stylist used it one time and MIRACLE.
Otherwise I use Marc Anthony Strictly Curls (mousse then frizz-reducing spray) which is a cheap drugstore brand but I have been using it for YEARS and have my routine perfected. I need to try your recs, I think.
January 7, 2013 at 6:27 pm
Caitlin
Okay WAIT. I meant to ask: What’s your texture like? Mine is verrrrry very fine and thin (despite what it can sometimes look like). I am afraid a leaf-in will weigh it down. What is your curl type? I am a 2C/3A that used to be more strictly a 3A and I am still in denial. Hormonal birth control ruined my hair. But that’s a whole other story.
January 8, 2013 at 4:15 pm
Mimi
Thank you for all this great and thoughtful tried-and-true info! Would you know about any similar products that would be 1) color-safe and 2) fragrance-free or fragrance-lite?
January 9, 2013 at 6:23 am
Jennielee
Love this post!! going to start trying this routine as my hair goes into a ponytail and headband everyday, it couldn’t possibly look worse.
January 30, 2013 at 5:10 pm
Nichole
I love this post. I’m going to try to make a routine! And I’m going to get some curly-hair products! Viva la revolucion!
(Seriously. I’m a little fired up about this hair thing now.)
February 4, 2013 at 7:04 pm
ducksandbooks
I pretty much do the same thing, but I put my hair up in a turban made of old t-shirt while I brush my teeth, moisturize, etc., then I scrunch product into my hair, re-wet it with handfuls of water over the sink, and use the t-shirt to scrunch it, then I go to bed and sleep with it fanned out around me (no flannel or jersey knit pillows or I look like I’ve been electrocuted!)
February 18, 2013 at 2:19 am
lauren
So with you on the not- touching rule!! It’s amazing how one little pat can annihilate my curls. I’ve found that if I slather some leave in conditioner and then put my hair in tight low bun and sleep on that/ leave it all day during work, my hair looks super sexy the next day or that night.
February 26, 2013 at 5:31 pm
rialeigh
Thanks for the post! any thoughts on dry shampoo?
March 24, 2013 at 1:12 pm
economama
So, this is totally random, but you know the girl on the cover of Curl Girl with the amazing red curls? My husband went to college with her! She isn’t a model at all, but worked at the publisher of the book, and when they were figuring out the artwork for the book, they realized they had the perfect curly girl right in front of them 🙂
April 12, 2013 at 10:26 am
Catherine Bosma
I use a no-foam shampoo by Original Moxie. It’s a super product. I can’t go completely shampoo-less as I tend to get dandruff (ew, I know). I use AG conditioner, another Original Moxie leave-in conditioner, either AG or Ouidad gel. I diffuse on a low setting because it takes my hair about 2 hours to dry. It’s THICK! My curl is in between a 3A and 3B. I’ll usually add an olive oil or coconut oil once dry to add a bit of shine back in. The Curly Girl book changed my life even though Deva products don’t really do it for me! Oh, and I swear by my satin pillowcase. Now I can rock 2nd day hair!
April 14, 2013 at 2:57 pm
Celeste
Woman, I don’t even have curly hair but I read this post with much happiness. You are so damn engaging. And now I know way more than I ever needed to know about curly hair.
July 3, 2013 at 2:22 pm
Dina
Hilarious post! Great intro to CG without the full manifesto. I followed a link from Not Martha to get here and I’m so glad I did.
January 10, 2014 at 1:09 pm
Curly Hair, Revisited | NoemiCan
[…] I only wrote five posts. What the document did tell me is that my most popular posts were the two posts I wrote in January about curly hair, so here, a year later, I thought I’d write a little bit […]
April 15, 2014 at 7:16 pm
Maria
Your curl looks relatively close to mine, but I can never get mine to look like that! I just started embracing the fact that I have curly hair about 10 months ago, and not straightening the hell out of it everyday. (Probably closer to once a week. Every other day it was thrown into a bun-type thing while wet). I have NO idea how to ask to get it cut and the closest salon that I found that has a stylist that went through the Deva Curl cut training is in downtown Memphis. And downtown Memphis scares me. I’m from Detroit, and Memphis can be BAD. 😊 Is there ANY advice you can give me that I can tell my hairdresser when it comes to cutting my hair? Last I had it cut, I asked for shoulder length. The length was ok, but my hair is fine and thin and I wonder if shorter layers may help? Right now it seems too long and it weighs my curls down. I do let it dry mostly and flip and scrunch right as I get into work. (Probably about 30 mins from the time I put the product in) I’ve been using moroccan oil curl defining cream and it’s been ok, but again, I don’t know Jack when it comes to my curls. I just learned about Curl Deva today and have spent the last 2-3 hours researching the products and looking at reviews. I’m super excited to try this line! Any suggestions on which product to use by Deva Curl, as it’s normally Africa hot and humid as heck here in the spring, summer AND fall. 😊 I would GREATLY appreciate any insight you have for me! This is the first and only blog I’ve read about curly hair and don’t know where else to go. 😊